Many fish tacos fail to impress because the mildness of the flesh can’t stand up to assertive condiments. On one recent night, a pair of tortillas arrived loaded down with huge hunks of pearly mahi-mahi, the flavor punched up with nuggets of avocado, a Sriracha aioli and a crunchy slaw-the blend bright and acidic enough to sting your lips. The fish taco at Eat Here changes by the day, thanks to the whims of the tides and the chef alike, but every version we’ve tried is a winner. The meat tastes even better when doused with any of La Brisa’s homemade sauces, which range from hot to creamy, and have the power to elevate whatever they touch.
At many eateries, the carnitas comes out gelatinous and stringy here’s it’s moist, but structured, just barely hanging together as it gets tossed inside a corn tortilla. This north 301 standby excels at carnitas-pork shoulder braised at long length with a smattering of fragrant spices and cooked down until the strands of meat crisp up around the edges. Honorable mentions: Taqueria Alexander Brick’s Smoked Meats Best Carnitas Taco: La Brisa Tacos Y Mariscos Minutes later, at the table, they’re warm and aromatic-supple vessels that ferry that delicious chicken to your taste buds.
Another standout here: the tortillas, pressed out flat right after you order and then toasted on the flattop. While we normally don’t go for chicken tacos (too predictable, too dry), the chicken here has been simmered way down and flavored with ancho chili powder until it looks more like carnitas than bird. Arugula? Tempeh? Pickled cabbage? You got it. A locally owned mini-chain, Poppo’s Taqueria serves fast casual burritos and tacos, with a plethora of ingredients and toppings you won’t find at most taquerias.
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